Articles

The Miracle of Manure

The-Miracle-of-Manure

December 19th, 2011

Beyond the copious amount of nutrients in manure is one of the most underrated and misunderstood ingredient–the final link between the dead and the living world. Without this ingredient, life on the plant would not exist. This miracle is called bacteria.

These micro-organisms break down all living matter and even rock to its basic elements which can then be consumed by plants. Rhizobium has an extremely rare ability to take nitrogen from the air and convert it to the only form usable by the plant. Rhizobium survives through a symbiotic relationship with plants such as legumes. The legumes supply them with sugars and organic acids and they in turn repay the favour with nitrogenous compounds.

Manure introduces these bacterium and helps to maintain the culture. So when you smell your garden dirt that is the actinomyces.

Why Use Manure

Why Use Manure
January 3rd, 2012

Manures provide added trace elements, enzymes, vitamins and other plant growth factors. They improve soil structure and build soil humus. It greatly increases the population of beneficial and disease suppressing micro-organisms. Manures release the nutrients slowly and provide plant food over a period of months and years.

Manures provide a whole array of nutrients essential for plant and human nutrition such as vanadium, iodine, selenium, chromium and a host of vitamins and other phytochemicals. Chemical fertilizers have no beneficial micro-organisms as they destroy them and does not contain the minerals and vitamins which are essential elements.

These nutrients are only available in manure. They create more robust and healthier flowers and far more nutritious and better tasting vegetables.

Our manures provide added trace elements, enzymes, vitamins, and other plant growth factors missing in chemical fertilizers. Unlike chemical fertilizers, manures improve soil structure and increase soil workability. Manures provide slow release nutrients. Vegetables grown with manures contain fewer nitrates than chemically grown vegetables. High nitrate consumption has been proven to increase the risk of cancer. Growing with manure improves the taste, aroma (duh!), nutritional value and quality of produce. Vegetables grown with manures have been shown to have up to 12 times as many nutrients as vegetables grown with conventional soils. Further studies have shown organic vegetables contain 6X the levels of salicylic acid as found in conventionally grown vegetables. Salicylic acid (Aspirin) has been linked in other studies to provide effective protection against cancer, heart attacks and strokes. Our rich, fertile manures transform poor worn out dirt into rich and highly productive loam – no doctor visits required.

The foundation of containers and baskets

February 8th, 2012

Spring is just around the corner and soon people want to put together their container gardens and baskets. The foremost concern with a container or basket is the soil that is used.

The two main problems with container soils are that it can be too heavy of a soil, which tends to break the hanger, or it just constantly dries out. The best soil is a light, porous soil that has extremely high water retention and is high in organic matter and nutrients.

Using the proper soil will help generate beautiful and healthy baskets and containers.

You can grow potatoes in a small space

It’s not Idaho, but you still can grow potatoes

In the lower mainland, potatoes can be planted as late as Aug. 1, with a harvest sometime in November.

A usual method of growing potatoes is to dig a trench, plant the seed potatoes in the bottom and then shovel the dirt back in as the plant grows, covering about a third of it.

A lot of people think you plant a potato and that the new ones grow below it, but that’s not so… Potatoes grow between the seed piece and the above-ground plant.

So in the trench method, the new potatoes develop in the soil that is shoveled back in.

Potato pointers

Here are some growing tips:

• Potatoes should be planted in sunny sites in fertile, slightly acidic soil. Loosen the soil with a fork and remove any weeds or stones.

• Cut apart larger seed potatoes, making sure there are at least two eyes in each piece you plant.

• Dust the cut pieces, which seals the open ends from bacteria.

• Fertilize with 8-20-20 fertilizer at planting and a couple of times during the season.

• Water so that the plants are kept at an even level of moisture.

• Don’t plant in the same area in consecutive years or use the same soil to fill your potato box, as potatoes can attract various diseases.

• Recommended potato varieties for the lower mainland include: Yukon Gold, Caribe, Red Pontiac, Desiree, Norland, Sangre, Pacific Russet, Russet Burbank, Kennebec, Warba, Bintje, Dakotah Pearl, and Satina. We carry several varieties of “gourmet” potatoes that also do well in our climate.

To save space, I recommend building a box and planting inside it, adding sides to the box as the plant grows and filling the new space with mulch or soil.

When the plant blossoms, it starts setting potatoes in this added soil. Soon after that, you can start removing the bottom boards from your box and “robbing” the plant, reaching in carefully and pulling out new potatoes.

Unless you steal all of them during the growing season, in the fall you should end up with a box of spuds — as much as 100 pounds.

Watering at an even rate is especially important when growing potatoes in a box since they will dry out faster in the container than in the ground.

Don’t drown and then let the potatoes dry out. Repeating that cycle throughout the year is a guarantee that you’ll grow knobby, scabby potatoes.

Your full potato crop is ready to be harvested when frost kills the tops. Or, in the absence of frost, you can cut off the tops yourself, wait 10 days to two weeks for the skins to firm up and then take your box apart completely, sorting the potatoes from the soil.

Fall and winter temperatures and humidity in the lower mainland are ideal for storing potatoes, and you can keep potatoes in a paper sack or basket in a garage.

Bulbs 101

Is this your first time planting bulbs? Or maybe it’s just been a while since you’ve had a tulip in your life. Whatever the reason, read on to be refreshed on the basics of these surprisingly simple beauties.

Q: What are bulbs and why are they important?

A: A flower bulb is an underground storehouse and flower factory, containing everything the plant will need to sprout and flower in its first bloom season. But don’t let the idea of planting intimidate you—all the bulb needs from you is to be placed in the ground at the right time of year, some water to quench its thirst and a little time to grow.

Q: I know about tulips, but what other flowers come from bulbs?

A: Bulbs are the storehouse for many flowering beauties including crocus, daffodils, dahlias, lilies, freesia, gladiolas, hyacinths, iris, narcissus and more.

Q: How do you know when to plant bulbs?

A: The flower bulbs should be planted as soon as possible after you have purchased them, although it can vary depending on local climate. Here’s a good rule of thumb: the colder the climate, the earlier you should plant. Regardless, spring-flowering bulbs must be planted before the first hard frost of the preceding fall to allow for sufficient root development. For more information, go to DigDropDone.com.

Q: Where can I buy them?

A: A number of retail outlets, both on- and offline, offer great bulb selections. The most popular include large retailers, home improvement stores and local nurseries. You can also buy them from garden centers, mail-order catalogs, supermarkets, specialty stores and the internet.

Q: What other basics do I need to know about bulbs?

A: Look on the package for flower color, planting month, blooming months, projected growth and depth for planting. If you are interested in additional planting tips, family activities with bulbs, deeper information on bulb varieties or a gallery of inspiration, go to DigDropDone.com.

Basic Bulb Facts

Bulbs:

Bulbs are a natural product. And, as such, follow a natural cycle of growth and rebirth. Enjoying their fabulous flowers means planting ahead; simply “dig, drop, done” in one season then “delight” in the next. Bulbs are among the easiest flowers to grow and also the most stunningly colorful to enjoy. Even the most novice gardener can create a breathtakingly beautiful spring, summer and fall garden with bulbs.

What’s a Bulb?

A flower bulb is really a self-contained flower factory. Within this marvelous little package is nearly everything the flower needs to come to life! Split a tulip open, for instance, and you’ll see its baby flower bud, leaves, roots, stem and food supply. All bulbs need from you is to be placed in the ground at the appropriate season of the year, given a liberal drink of water then left to work their magic.

Variety

Flower bulbs come in a seemingly limitless variety which makes them perfectly suitable for any garden design you can dream up. Planting just a few can easily provide beautiful color in your garden for several months. Daffodils are the first sign of spring and dahlias will bloom until frost hits the pumpkins.
The three most important factors to keep in mind are color, of course, but also plant height and flowering period.

In general, there are two seasons for bulb planting:

Bulb planting times…

Fall

After soil temperatures are below 50ºF/10ºC. These bulbs bloom the following spring and require the cold winter temperatures for development. But let’s say winter arrives and your bulbs are still in their bag. Not to worry! Bulbs are pre-programmed to grow so even if you have to plant through snow, plant your bulbs!

Spring

After the danger of frost has passed (tender bulbs love soil that is at least 60ºF/15ºC). These bulbs bloom in summer/fall.

Buying and Planting Tips

The bigger the bulb, the bigger the flower.
Plan ahead. Make a list and include pictures from catalogs or magazines.
Consider your climate. Choose bulbs suited to grow and bloom in your area.
Read labels. Pre-packaged Dutch bulbs include planting instructions on their labels.
Inspect the bulbs. Healthy bulbs are generally firm bulbs.

Most bulbs thrive in either full or partial sun and in almost any location with good drainage. Avoid planting at the base of hills or under drainpipes where water collects and will rot the bulbs.

Good soil preparation is the very first step. Make sure it is loose and porous to make the planting easier (and because good drainage is necessary for all types of bulbs). Adding peat moss to the soil is a good trick to improve drainage.The planting depth of bulbs depends on their size: a good rule of thumb is that the depth should be 3x the diameter of the bulb. However, planting depths vary by variety. For more specific planting depths, check the label on your bulb package.
The spacing of the bulbs depends largely on the effect you are trying to achieve. For best results plant in clumps of large groups rather than in single rows.
After loosening the soil gently press the bulbs (with pointed ends up) in the bed, cover them with the removed soil and tap it down slightly.
Water thoroughly.

It’s as easy as “dig, drop, done.”

Additional Tips for First Time Bulb Planters:

A larger grouping of flower bulbs are far more fab than just a few planted here and there. For smaller groupings, try container plantings using pots, baskets or window boxes.
Freezing temperatures can crack terra cotta pots and ornamental planters. By first planting bulbs in plastic pots then placing the plastic pot inside the earthen one, you’ll create a natural insulation between the two.
Lay out your bulbs on top of the soil where you want to plant them. After, poke a twig into the soil to mark where you’ve already planted.
Plant markers can be pretty and practical ways to mark sections of similar bulbs. Buy wood, galvanized steel or terra cotta markers or make your own!
For a natural look throw out handfuls of bulbs and plant them where they fall.
Plant low-growing bulb varieties up front and taller ones at the back of your beds.
Note the flowering times. Not all tulips, for instance, will bloom at the same time. A little planning will greatly increase the number of months you will enjoy bulb flowers.
When your leaves drop in fall, rake a layer of them over newly-planted bulbs. They’ll love the extra bedding!

Bulb Tip from Marcy

Here's a bulb tip from Marcy

Why bag your leaves in the fall when you can rake a layer of them over newly-planted bulbs. Wait ’til the ground cools and they’ll love the extra protection.

Lawn Fertilizers

Controlled-Release Lawn Fertilizers
Why they’re a better choice for a healthy lawn, year-round.

Do you know the difference between an outstanding lawn fertilizer, a merely good one, and one that will offer only marginal benefits to your lawn? You should – because price isn’t always a reliable guide … and whatever your budget, you want to make sure you’re getting top value for your dollars.

Make no mistake, the quality of the lawn fertilizer you choose, and the strength of your lawn feeding program, is just about the most important decision you can make concerning the quality of your lawn. A lawn that is fed right will be thicker, lusher, and much more able to fight off the stress of insect and weed competition, adverse environmental conditions and wear.

Let’s look at life from a lawn’s point of view. Like humans, a lawn has some essential needs that must be met in order for it to be able to survive, and thrive. These include; A healthy growing environment, Protection from harmful elements, Water, light and food.

For a lawn, a healthy growing environment includes a good bed of quality topsoil. If your soil is compacted, or poorly drained, too sandy or otherwise inhospitable, you will not be able to grow a lush lawn despite you best efforts. A lawn also needs to be protected from harmful elements: Weeds, insects, or conditions that might cause stress or promote disease will definitely prevent a lawn from reaching its full potential. They may even destroy it.

Water and light are critical … there must be enough of each, but not too much. And it’s the same with food. Too little fertilizer, and the lawn will go hungry. Its growth will be stunted. And too much food, as with humans, can be bad for turf. It can burn or, in extreme cases, kill grass.

So how do you decide which fertilizer is right for your lawn? Well, make sure it’s one with enough nutrition. All green plants need higher levels of nitrogen for healthy growth. On a bag of lawn fertilizer, it’s represented by the first of three numbers. (For example, Fabulawn 24-4-16 means 24% Nitrogen, 4% Phosphorus and 16% Potassium.) While Nitrogen is the element that promotes green growth, Phosphorus encourages strong root growth, and Potassium strengthens the plant overall and helps it resist stress.

A bag of 7-7-7 general purpose fertilizer, or even a 10-6-4 lawn fertilizer contains hardly enough nitrogen for adequate feeding. There’s a reason why these formulations are usually economy-priced. They contain low nutrient levels, usually lower quality ingredients, and a lot of filler.

Higher levels of nitrogen are not a guarantee of quality either. If they are not in a “controlled-release” form, they can release nitrogen too fast, especially in wet weather, burning the plants. Most last only 6 to 8 weeks at best. Most top-quality fertilizer lines offer a full range of formulations, too. So you can choose to control harmful elements like weeds or insects while you feed the lawn.

Ask your lawn & garden dealer to recommend a lawn feeding program that’s right for your environment. You’ll see a difference in a thicker, healthier lawn this season.

The “Environmentally Friendly” Lawn
Organic or conventional fertilizer?

A well-maintained lawn acts like a giant air filter, constantly removing pollutants and carbon dioxide, and replenishing the oxygen supply. The average lawn will supply the oxygen requirements for a family of four. A lush green lawn makes a better air filter than one that is allowed to run wild. A healthy lawn also provides cooling, prevents erosion from water run off, and reduces noise pollution.

A lawn is a valuable addition to every home environment, regardless of its size. Today, most homeowners want to keep their lawn looking green and healthy so it adds beauty to the house and enjoyment to the family, while increasing property value as well.

At the same time, people are increasingly aware of the environmental aspects of lawn care. For many, natural or “organic” options seem to be the way to go. There is a lot of confusion in the lawn and garden market about exactly what is meant by the terms “Natural” or “Organic”. In fact, some products that are positioned as organic can actually be more harmful to the environment than “conventional” products.

Let’s take a look at lawn feeding from the plant’s point of view. All plants require 3 major nutrients – nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potash (K) – to survive. These 3 elements, often referred to as “chemical” fertilizers, are actually produced from elements found in nature… they’re refined from minerals mined from the ground. All fertilizers – conventional or organic- must contain some form of these three nutrients for healthy plant growth. On a bag of fertilizer, a number represents the percentage of each element. For example, 24-4-8 lawn fertilizer contains 24% nitrogen, 4% phosphorus and 8% potash as active ingredients. On the extreme “organic” side, cattle manure for example contains less than 1% each of N, P and K and may contain a lot of weed seeds. It is good for the lawn or garden, but more useful for building up organic matter in the soil. It is unlikely to be able to supply enough food for healthy plant growth. Higher quality natural fertilizers deliver N, P and K in the form of unprocessed or homogenous ingredients, such as blood or bone meal. They typically have lower N, P and K numbers than conventional fertilizers, but can provide a balanced diet to meet plant nutritional requirements.

Nitrogen promotes healthy green foliage, phosphorus develops strong roots and plentiful fruit or flowers, while potash improves overall plant hardiness and disease resistance. The plant takes up only as much of these elements as it needs. Any excess amount can be leached away into the environment – whether the source is conventional or organic – so it’s just as important not to overfeed as it is to underfeed.

This is where high quality “conventional” fertilizers can sometimes offer an advantage. They would appear to pose more of a risk because they contain much higher quantities of N, P and K. But in fact, in a high quality fertilizer the nutrients are designed to be released slowly, giving plants only the food they need, over an extended period of time. This reduces the risk of elements leaching into groundwater, and has the added benefit of reducing the number of applications you need to make over the growing season.

The key to maintaining a healthy, environmentally friendly lawn is in feeding it just the right amount of nutrients for healthy growth, without overfeeding. You can achieve this with either “natural” or “conventional” fertilizers

All About Fertilizers

What’s in the Bag?

The hyphenated numbers on the front label of any package of fertilizer stand for the major nutrients plants need — nitrogen (N), phosphorous (P), and potassium (K). The numbers, always given in the same order, represent the percentages each of N, P, and K in the bag (by weight). Other nutrients are often found in fertilizer, but not in as large amounts as N, P, and K. The percentages of other nutrients are listed under the Guaranteed Analysis.

The Three Main Nutrients (N, P, and K)

Nitrogen (N) is the main nutrient for new, green growth. Plants that are almost all leaf (such as lawn grasses) need plenty of nitrogen, so the first number is especially high in fertilizers for lawns because grass must continuously renew itself after mowing. The higher the number, the more nitrogen the fertilizer provides.

Phosphorous (P) promotes root development which helps strengthen plants.It also increases blooms on flowers. Lots of phosphorous is great for bulbs, perennials, and newly planted trees and shrubs. They depend on strong roots, so fertilizers meant for these plants often have high middle numbers.

Potassium (K) improves the overall health of plants. It helps them withstand very hot or cold weather and defends against diseases. Most soils already have some potassium, so the third number in the fertilizer analysis is usually smaller than the other two. Fertilizers meant for fall, such as Winterizer, also contain extra potassium to help prepare plants for cold weather.

Other Important Nutrients

Calcium (Ca) improves general plant vigor and promotes growth of young roots and shoots.

Magnesium (Mg) helps regulate uptake of other plant foods and aids in seed formation. It is important in development of the dark green color of plants and to assist the plant in the manufacture of food from sunlight.

Sulfur (S) helps maintain a dark green color while encouraging more vigorous plant growth.

Minor, or trace elements, are elements used in small amounts but which are still essential to plant health. They help insure dark green color, vigorous development, and healthy growth. Iron (Fe) is the minor element most often lacking from poor soils; it helps plants maintain a dark green color.

Look carefully at a label to shop wisely for fertilizers. The numbers on the bag tell only one part of the story. The most important ingredient, nitrogen, comes in many different forms. That is what distinguishes commodity fertilizers and some slow-release fertilizers from the latest technology such as timed-release nitrogen.

About Tomatoes

HOW TO GROW TOMATOES

Anyone can grow really delicious tomatoes by following these garden suggestions!

* Tomatoes need sun, all day. Pick a sunny area where water does not stand after a heavy rain and trees do not cast shadows.

* Start your seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last spring frost.

* Use sterile seed-starting mixture for best results. Provide 12-18 hours of light daily from fluorescent fixtures 6-8 in. above the plants. Turn the lights off at night. Raise the lights as seedlings grow.

* Use a fertilizer dissolved in the water, at about half strength, each time you water, starting when seedlings have 2 pairs of leaves.

* Thin plants as suggested on seed packet.

* When frost is past, take your seedlings outdoors during the day, shading them from direct sun. Bring seedlings in each evening. After a week or so, the plants have “”hardened off”" and you can plant them into the garden.

* Plant seedlings a little deeper than they were in the pots. Provide stakes about 6 in. from plants, and tie plants up as they grow.

* You can prune the suckers (branches) off your plants of you wish. On large-fruits varieties this will give you bigger, though fewer, fruits. For BIG tomatoes: Tomato flowers form in a cluster. Once you have a sure fruit forming, pinch off any subsequent fruits which start to form in that cluster (leaving one tomato per cluster).

* If your tomatoes are very large, you may want to provide little hammocks for each fruit. Pantyhose works great for this; just sling it underneath the fruits and tie to a stake.

* Keep your tomato plants evenly moist all through the growing season, and fertilize regularly with a formula low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus and potassium (the last two numbers on the fertilizer package).

SHOULD I STAKE/CAGE MY TOMATO PLANTS?

YES, support your tomato plants for larger, cleaner fruit and to make it easier to see and pick. If not staked, use black plastic mulch around plants.

WHAT FERTILIZER SHOULD I USE? WHEN?

Add balanced fertilizer and some composted manure to soil as you prepare it, then plant and scatter a little balanced fertilizer around the plants after you’ve planted them; water in. Do not get dry fertilizer on the plants — it may “”burn”" them. Repeat one more time, before July 1 (in most areas).

MY TOMATO PLANTS WILTED OVERNIGHT!

Common problem–bacterial wilt (Fusarium or Verticillium). Sudden wilting when plant is loaded with fruits. Plant may continue to ripen its fruit (which are fine to eat). This is common local soil disease and there is no cure once the disease begins.

Suggestions:

1. Plant tomato varieties which have tolerance or resistance (indicated by “”VF”" after their name).

2. Move your tomato plantings around each year. Don’t plant tomatoes where any tomato, pepper or eggplants have grown the last three years (called rotating crops).

3. Build raised beds or grow in large tubs filled with sterilized soil mixture.

WHAT ARE THESE BLACK SPOTS ON MY LEAVES?

Early Blight is a fungus that survives during the winter on old vines. Cleaning up old vines from the prior season, rotating crops and spacing plants properly to allow for good air circulation are good first steps in avoiding this problem.
The preventative measures is crop rotation and cleaning up debris from prior growing seasons. If you suspect your plants have Early Blight, remove all diseased stems and foliage and dispose of in a trash bag. Do not add to compost pile.

MY PLANTS HAVE MOTTLED LEAVES (MOSAIC)

Tobacco mosaic virus spreads from tobacco — don’t handle cigarettes or smoke in the garden. Use varieties tolerant/resistant (“”TMV”" after their name).

MY SMALL PLANTS ARE ALL CUT OFF AND FALLEN OVER!

(Cutworms) It happens overnight! Nothing you can do but replant! Next time, prevent cutworm damage! Use a paper, cardboard or Styrofoam collar (a coffee cup with the bottom removed works wonderfully) around the base of each newly-planted tomato. Leave in place for a month.

WHAT ARE THESE HUGE GREEN WORMS ON MY TOMATOES?

Tomato hornworms eat a lot quickly. Pick off by hand.

WHAT’S CHEWING MY TOMATOES?

Raccoons, rats and squirrels chew. Birds peck the fruits. Use repellents, fake snakes, owls and scary “”eyes”", or try fencing with chicken wire.

WHY AREN’T MY TOMATOES RIPENING?

Long periods of cloudy/cool puts ripening mechanism on “”hold”". There’s just no substitute for hot sun. Be patient. Maturity/days to harvest given on seed packets is approximate from setting plants out, under ideal conditions.

WHY ARE MY TOMATOES SPLITTING?

After a lot of rain following drought, fruits absorb moisture quickly and the skin splits (but OK to eat). Mulch plants, keep even soil moisture through growing season.

WHAT ARE THE BIG BLACK SUNKEN AREAS AT THE FLOWER END OF THE FRUIT?

This is called Blossom End Rot. It reflects a calcium deficiency. Add egg shell lime and bone meal when planting and again in the fall for the next year’s plants. Drought may also cause this condition as the calcium can not be absorbed whithout enough moisture.

WHAT IS THAT WHITE SCALDED AREA ON “”CHEEK”" OF FRUIT?

Tomatoes “”sunburn”" if summer temperatures are very high without much leaf cover on plant. There isn’t much you can do but enjoy the weather. The fruit is OK to eat.